Despite growing up in New York City, my parents’ refusal to get a car meant that I never got a chance to have New Jersey’s iconic Taylor ham/pork roll sandwich. North Jersey calls it “Taylor ham,” South Jersey calls it “pork roll,” but it’s a processed pork product that is sliced/grilled/served on an egg and cheese sandwich as part of many Jersey morning routines. Sounds and looks like grilled SPAM, but never say that to a Jerseyite. True Salvage Cafe, located in Maplewood, NJ, opened in February 2019 by Signe Heffernan–who previously worked for Danny Meyer’s catering company–and her father David, was voted by NJ.com to have the best Taylor ham sandwich. I was driving up from DC to visit Mitsuwa Marketplace in North Jersey and decided to stop by True Salvage for my inaugural Taylor ham sandwich.
True Salvage’s Taylor ham sandwich is excellent and is worthy of its top-place ranking. As this is the only rendition I’ve ever had, I can’t make any comparative claims, but it’s an objectively good sandwich. It doesn’t have a complicated composition–a roll, two layers of American cheese, slices of grilled Taylor ham and a thick slab of scrambled egg in the middle–and is there isn’t much room for self-expression to lend True Salvage any real competitive edge. I could point out that the choice to use cheese on both sides of the bread and the generous amount of scrambled egg as notable elements. But what really helps True Salvage stand out is its use of a crusty roll from Balthazar Bakery in Englewood rather than the standard kaiser roll most places use. read is often the overlooked part of the equation when building a sandwich, but here it elevates True Salvage past places that make basic breakfast sandwiches.
I also ordered the roast beef sandwich, which contained generous slices of roast beef touched up with cheddar and horseradish, topped with fried onions, and tucked into crusty ciabatta. I liked it a lot, particularly the kick from the horseradish and the choice of ciabatta. I didn’t care for the fried in-house kettle chips, since they (and house-fried kettle chips in general) absorb too much oil. I realize this may be down to personal preference, but I would’ve opted for a field green salad or some kind of palate cleanser side if they were available.
Unlike the bread, which come form Balthazar, the pastries are made in-house and subject to change depending on season and preferences. No photos unfortunately, as I didn’t want to make the staff to plate them only to bag them like I did with the sandwiches. But take my word that I’m glad that my server talked me into getting the bacon-walnut bread pudding; I’m not normally one for sweets, but the the combination of bacon, walnut, and maple syrup in the bread pudding really came together well to remind me of the start of fall. Likewise, I also really liked the cheddar-jalapeño scones, which featured chunks of melted cheese inside the scone and lightly scorched on the outside. I ate it the day after–I may have bought too much food while in Jersey–and it was still excellent.
The shop is located in a charming part of Maplewood, decorated by David Heffernan with his collection of 20th-century antiques and accents that pay homage to the café’s name. (I can’t be the only person who has wanted to play with the vintage typewriter) There’s a neighborhood eatery vibe to the location, with young families and couples making up much of the clientele, though customers note that business seems to have picked up since the NJ.com Taylor ham award announcement. Service is a particular highlight of True Salvage: Signe was kind enough to answer my questions about parking and to oblige my request to plate the sandwiches for photography and box them to go afterwards. True Salvage’s excellent food and service warrants a repeat visit.
Rating: Highly Recommended
Items of Note: Taylor Ham Sandwich, Roast Beef Sandwich, Bacon-Walnut Bread Pudding
