I visited Chilangos right after finishing off a multi-course meal as part of Uchiba’s ramen + bbq collaboration with Aaron Franklin, so this write-up is a more of a quick hitter than a real in-depth look. However, I came across José Ralat’s piece on costra (tacos) shortly after I made plans to go to Dallas and put Chilangos on my to-visit list to save myself from eating only barbecue or ramen on this trip.
Costra (“crust”) is a relatively recent taco phenomenon, with its history going back less than two decades to a Mexican City taqueria named Las Costras, located next to a boozy nightclub. On the most basic level, costras involve the use of cheese fried on a griddle before it is combined with the meat of one’s choice. However, its novelty means that there is not yet an agreed-upon preparation of a costra: La Vibra Tacos in Houston serves it rolled up within Oaxaca-Gouda cheese on a flour tortilla; Urban Taco in Dallas serves it as a slice of Spanish Manchego placed on the griddle, topped with jalapenos before a corn tortilla is pressed on and the meat added.
Chilango’s costra rendition is closer to that of La Vibra, where the cheese is placed on the griddle, loaded up with more meats and cheese, then rolled up and then served on a griddled flour tortilla, and topped with pineapple, cilantro, and onions to order before serving. My costra contained campechano, a mix of pork and beef–probably al pastor and carne asada–and tasted awfully good. There’s not much more nuance to add here especially given the state of my appetite, but the combination of griddled and melted cheese in the costra offered interesting textural variation that made me want to get another one if I could’ve done so.
I also opted for al pastor tacos served on a corn tortilla, topped with cilantro, onions, and pineapple. Again, not much nuance here, but the al pastor was juicier (and fattier) than the al pastor I usually get from Los Guachos in Columbus, which I’ve occasionally found to be dry. Both are prepared and sliced off the trompo and then finished on the griddle, so the difference probably owes to different cuts of meat.
Chilangos is located in Northwest Dallas, one of the most dangerous areas in town, a fact that my Lyft driver reminded me of four or five times during our ride. But the interior and atmosphere inside is bright and cheery–one patron gave me the thumbs up as I fumbled about with my camera–and it’s notable that Chilangos serves Mexican-style tacos rather than the Tex-Mex style that seems to be favored in Dallas. As such, Chilangos is worth a visit not just because of its costra, but because it’s a solid taqueria overall. I can’t give it a much higher recommendation than that until I’ve gotten a chance to investigate the menu more thoroughly, but it’s at the top of my list the next time I’m in Dallas.
Rating: Recommended
Items of Note: Costra with Campechano; the Al Pastor is good too.
